Tinakilly Country House 
Rathnew, Ireland

They say there are 40 colors of green on the Emerald Isle. I can see 39 of them from my window. Left, a stone wall is drenched with pearly-pink clematis and a white horse grazes on kelly-green grass. The scene is framed by forest-green pine trees adorned with new lime-green growth. Ahead, towards the sea, the farmer tromps through the daisies and buttercups of a chartreuse-and-spring-green meadow on his way to fix the fence. Beyond the fence, knolls of olive-and-avocado-green brambles form a portion of the Broadlough Bird Sanctuary. On the horizon, two tiny figures cruise along the coast of the blue-gray Irish Sea and the dove-gray puffs in the soon- to-be-rainy sky.

A long, but thoroughly enjoyable cab ride from Dublin’s airport delivered me to this rural retreat. I’d arrived a bit too late on a Friday afternoon and caught the full force of happening-Dublin’s rush hour. The cab driver and I reminisced about the sweep of changes in Ireland over the last 10 years, speculated on the peace prospects for Northern Ireland and discussed remedies for foot and mouth disease. Then I was privy to a gorgeous serenade starting with "June is Bustin’ Out all Over" and finishing with a song of Ireland’s hero/martyr, Michael Collins which includes the unforgettable lines, "another martyr for old Ireland, another murder for the crown."

My goose bumps have just disappeared when we reach Rathnew--not ‘Rathold’ quips my cab driver. We’re just north of Wicklow Town in County Wicklow and about 30 miles south of Dublin. A long drive through pasture and woods takes us from the front gate to the Italianate-Victorian Tinakilly Country House and Restaurant. A wisteria-clad entrance, friendly fountains and acres of gardens greet me. Completed in 1883, Tinakilly (from the Gaelic meaning house of the woods) was constructed for Captain Robert Halpin. He was the captain of The Great Eastern from which the first transoceanic telegraph cables were laid. Tinakilly’s current owners, The Powers Family, are also the capable managers of this fine country hotel.

A grand red-carpeted stairway, a replica of The Great Eastern’s, leads to my room in the seaside addition. The additions at Tinakilly have been designed with such care I can not tell where the old stops and the new begins, although I expect the plumber can. My spacious, comfortable room is decorated in the Victorian style and has several terrific pieces of Victoriana. One whole side of the room is taken up with broad windows looking out towards the sea. The perfect spot to sit and dream.

The Victorian-looking, but thoroughly modern bathroom has one of those wonderful big tubs for a good soak as well as a separate shower stall.

When I finally emerge from my cocoon, it’s Saturday and Tinakilly is a-buzz with weekend visitors. In my room, I’d heard only the laughter of children and the cantata of birds. I retreat to the sitting room where lunch is being served. A sandwich of smoked Irish salmon on homemade Irish brown bread is most tasty. A priest and an older couple chat in the corner, a group of Germans converse in the bay of the windows, and three stylish Irish women are near the old Victrola. The priest and the Germans quaff Guinness, the women and I take tea.

Rambling about Tinakilly—inside and out—is a treat. Inside, I’m intrigued by the exquisite Burmese mahogany and "birds eye" maple woodwork and all manner of nautical and Victorian accoutrements. Moving out into the Irish spring, I find myself "ohhing" aloud as I make my way along the paths. I ferret out a badger hole on the Badger Walk and catch some foxy sea views in the Fox’s Wood. I get a whiff of rosemary in the Herb Garden and delight at the first buds in the Rose Garden. My favorite nook, however, is under a cathedral of beech trees where tiny white daises dance atop emerald grass and are cheered on by sapphire bluebells.

Beyond Tinakilly, there’s County Wicklow in which to wander. The tourist bureau calls it "the garden of Ireland" and not without reason. The informal gardens of Mount Usher which spread along the Vartry River and the formal gardens and sweeping terraces of Powerscourt top the gardens-to-visit list. On the wilder side, tramping among the glens, mountain lakes and rugged coasts of County Wicklow is highly recommended and could take up the better part of a lifetime.

If golf were my game, Tinakilly would be right on course. The Powers—golf is their game—have created a brochure featuring twenty golf courses within driving distance of Tinakilly. It not only details the prices, the holes and best days to visit, but tells of their history, lore and scenic highlights.

When my roaming is over, I return to lovely Tinakilly for a drink by the fire and a fine dinner in their restaurant. Then, I sit gazing out at the Irish Sea and count the greens.

By Kate Crawford          March 2002

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE

Here is the website of Tinakilly Country House and Restaurant. 

Check out the Tinakilly Restaurant.

Here’s a site maintained by the Wicklow County Council with lots of information on what’s going on and a fun interactive map which is great for planning a Wicklow vacation.

The Mount Usher gardens  web site has lovely pictures.

Ditto the web page of Powerscourt.