| PUAKO Puako is a residential area with a few houses for rent. Not a condo scene. It was built up over the years as the Parker Ranch sold off unneeded coastal land. It started in the 50s with fishing shacks, then modest vacation homes and now rather elaborate abodes. The Puako road was originally the main road around the island. It was cut off when the freeway went through and then at either end by resorts, so Puako itself remains a hidden treasure.
Tres Hombres Beach Grill is Hawaiian-Gringo with a fine collection of surfboards and memorabilia (Mom had to ask if the room marked "Gidget" was for her.) The food was good, not great and prices ($12-$15 for main course) seemed high. One evening we did take-out from Café Pesto. We had excellent and interesting pastas (smoked salmon, sun-dried tomatoes, spinach and caper fettuccine in a saffron cream sauce) and gourmet pizzas. I definitely recommend this spot.
The House Pua Lani is built in the shape of an H. The central part contains a big, well-equipped kitchen and a dining area that sits about 12. There's a living room full of comfy couches and several sitting rooms. The kids tell me there are 3 TVs. On the ocean side at the top of the H are two big bedrooms, with beds angled just so to catch the full ocean view. Each has a sitting room and bathroom. On the garden side of the H is a third bedroom and bath, and a complete laundry. The open space on the ocean side of the H is all lanai. It's fitted out with chaises, table and chairs, and a barbecue. Too wonderful. The yard is landscaped only at the edge and in such a way to exclude neighbors from view. Lying on the hammock, this whole tropical paradise feels like yours alone. The flowers, fruit, a note from Patti, and great locally made coconut soap (I had to buy a years' supply to take home) was truly an aloha welcome. We found that many little things here made the living easy: beach chairs, beach towels, a picnic cooler, and even a waffle iron. The Beach You can't really get into the ocean from here because of the sharp lava. Forewarned we had our beach shoes. I loved wandering over the lava to see what the tide brought in, especially the sea turtles. Patti arranged to have kayaks delivered to one guest so they could get right to the sea. We decided if we return we would want a boat so we could snorkel. I bet Patti could do that, too.
The House A large sand colored wall spilling over with hot pink bougainvillea greets our arrival. Entering a mature tropical garden, Wailea Bay is just off a small cliff to the right. The house is spread out along the left with patios, hammocks and lots of outdoor sitting areas. Immediately you recognize a house designed by an artist. The far wing holds a gorgeous if none too functional kitchen, the living room and master bedroom. The kitchen, a fantastic underwater scene, is made up of tiles depicting the ocean bottom and blue-yellow-red-green ceramic fish swimming through graceful wands of copper seaweed. Large windows slide open as a pass-through to the outdoor dining area facing the bay. The master bedroom in the center of this section is nice, but has no windows. His and her baths with outdoor showers and whimsical ceramics compensate. Two other bedrooms, each with private entry, patio, and outdoor shower, look towards the bay. Separate from the main house is a round turret with a bedroom room on the second floor. It feels like being in your own private tree house with tropical gardens inside and out. This room, clearly designed as the artist’s studio, is lacking a bath but is near those of the master bedroom. Again fresh fruit and an orchid bouquet marked our arrival. The overall feeling of this house was not, however, as much in the aloha spirit as the first. There were no wonderful coconut soaps and no pictures on the walls-just hooks where they had once been. The basic furniture was there, but that was all. The small plastic shelves in the closets just didn't make it as substitute dressers. Turns out there is a new owner and he is setting out to remedy these defects. The Beach The beach is a perfect crescent of white sand. It's large enough for a good walk, some decent snorkeling and shade. It's small enough not to attract attention or crowds, not even on Easter. Beach shoes with tough soles are a must. One type of tree drops nut which very sharp spines.
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